The new chassis was put up on bricks beside the old one, and the transfer of parts began.
Before the axles go on, the rubber blocks which act as stops to the front suspension needed to be transferred. The large one has a captive bolt under the rubber, which turns once you start to undo the nut. The rubber therefore has to come out of its housing. Getting it back was not too difficult with the help of washing up liquid and a G-clamp used as a press, after putting a large socket over the nut and bolt at the bottom to give the clamp a flat surface to bear on. This rubber block was by mistake mounted too close to the axle where it would have scraped on the arm as it swings - check this carefully - I had to re-drill it.
The front and rear axles are heavy - two people were needed to lift them into position. Some of the weld beads on the new chassis were in the way of the axle mountings and had to be ground away.
Once the axles were in position the suspension could be linked up; note that the front and rear knife edges are a different size. At this stage we left the system loose - the tie-rods will need adjusting to give the right height when the car is eventually lowered to the ground. The big suspension bearing nuts were also left fairly loose at this stage. I intended to tighten them up hard once the car was on the wheels and the suspension cylinder had had a chance to find its best position under load.
The sub-frame behind the rear axle was transferred after being re-painted.
The new chassis was lacking brackets for the petrol tank. I cut these off the old chassis and bolted them in place, temporarily attaching the tank to get the position right. There was not quite enough width between the rear chassis legs and the (plastic) tank had to be carefully trimmed by a few millimetres. Fortunately there is a pretty wide flange which is already drilled for the mounting bolts and these holes indicate how far it it safe to cut.